In short
- Light-based hair removal achieves long-term hair reduction, not permanent removal: in the review that required patients to be followed for a complete growth cycle, pulsed light achieved between 27% and 52.7% depending on the area.
- SHR mode delivers low-fluence pulses at high frequency with the handpiece in motion. Against the single high-fluence shot it achieved equivalent effectiveness with roughly half the pain.
- The number of sessions is determined by the growth cycle of the area, not by the machine: each session only reaches hair that is in its active growth phase.
- It does not work on white, grey or very fair hair: without pigment there is no target to absorb the light. This is a physical limitation of the technology, not of any particular device.
- Tanned skin is a real contraindication, and hair that appears rapidly alongside irregular periods or acne should be investigated before it is treated.
Light-based hair removal reduces hair by heating the follicle with light absorbed by the pigment in the hair. At the Instituto de Cirugía Plástica del Mediterráneo (ICPM), in Valencia, we do it with intense pulsed light in SHR mode, which is not a trade name for the same old thing: it is a different way of delivering that energy, and there are trials that have compared it head to head with the classic approach.
Two warnings up front, because they condition everything else. First: we are talking about long-term reduction, not permanent removal; anyone promising the latter is promising something the literature does not support. Second: the number of sessions is not decided by the machine, it is decided by the growth cycle of the area to be treated.
What SHR actually is
Classic light-based hair removal works by selective photothermolysis: a high-fluence shot — a great deal of energy concentrated into a very short time — which the pigment in the hair absorbs and turns into enough heat to damage the follicle in one go. It is effective, and it is the part that hurts most.
SHR mode — from super hair removal — turns the approach around. Instead of one powerful shot, it delivers low-fluence pulses at a high repetition rate while the handpiece moves across the skin. The heat builds up progressively until it reaches the temperature that damages the follicle, rather than arriving all at once. The skin is cooled by contact throughout the sweep.
It is the difference between raising the temperature with a blast of heat and doing it little by little. The destination is the same; the journey is not.
Why we work in SHR mode
This is the part with direct support, and it is worth looking at closely because it is an uncommon case: there are trials comparing the same machine in both modes, on the same patient, one side against the other.
The study that gives the mode its name. Ninety-two women received four sessions of underarm hair removal with an 810 nm diode laser: one armpit in SHR mode and the other in classic high-fluence mode. Six months after the last session, median hair reduction was 90.2% with SHR against 87% with the classic mode. And median pain, on a scale of 0 to 10, was 2.75 with SHR against 6.75 with the classic mode. The authors conclude that low fluence at a high repetition rate removes hair effectively and also significantly improves tolerability and reduces adverse effects during treatment.
A second trial, with longer follow-up. A randomised side-by-side comparison between a machine in SHR mode in motion and a single-shot machine, five sessions 6–8 weeks apart and blinded hair counts at one month, six months and twelve months. Reduction at six months: 40.7% with the in-motion technique against 33.5% with the single shot, a difference that did not reach statistical significance. The pain difference did, and comfortably: 2.7 against 3.6 (p = 0.0007). The six-month results held at one year.
In short: in the direct comparisons available, SHR mode achieves equivalent effectiveness — or slightly better, with no statistical difference — with roughly half the pain.
And here is the caveat you will not read on other websites: both trials were carried out with a diode laser in SHR mode, not with pulsed light. The principle they test — low fluence, high repetition, handpiece in motion, progressive heating — is the same one an IPL machine applies in SHR mode, but the specific evidence for IPL-SHR is thinner. We say so because it is true and because the difference between informing and selling lies exactly there.
That said, the pain mattering is not a cosmetic detail. Light-based hair removal requires completing a course of sessions spread over months, and a treatment that is not finished does not work. A technique that hurts half as much is a technique that gets finished.
IPL or laser: what the direct comparisons say
A 2026 randomised clinical trial compared intense pulsed light (690 nm filter) against an 810 nm diode laser in the armpit, one side each, in women of phototypes I to IV, with four monthly sessions and blinded assessors. On the primary endpoint — hair count at four weeks — there was no statistically significant difference between the two. At 30 weeks, the diode showed better objective results. Pain was consistently greater with the diode laser. Adverse effects fell differently: erythema more common with IPL; perifollicular oedema and charring more common with the diode. All were temporary and none required medical treatment.
A meta-analysis in phototypes III to VI covering 12 comparative trials found that long-pulsed Nd:YAG and the diode laser do not differ significantly from IPL in reducing hair count. On safety, Nd:YAG came out better than IPL for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and the diode had a profile comparable to IPL but with higher pain scores.
So the real picture is this: against the two technologies it is most often compared with, pulsed light achieves equivalent reduction and is better tolerated, as well as being versatile across phototypes and covering large areas quickly. Added to SHR mode, that advantage in tolerability compounds.
What reduction is realistic
This is the figure most worth taking in before starting.
One systematic review set out to do something almost nobody does: analyse only randomised trials with follow-up equal to or longer than a complete hair growth cycle in the area treated, which is the only way of knowing whether the reduction holds. It found just five eligible trials, with 223 patients in total. Their long-term reduction ranges:
| Technology | Long-term reduction |
|---|---|
| Nd:YAG | 30 – 73.61% |
| Diode laser | 32.5 – 69.2% |
| Intense pulsed light (IPL) | 27 – 52.7% |
And one finding explains much of the variation: reduction was greater in areas with a long growth cycle — the leg, with a cycle of around a year — and lower in those with a short cycle, such as the face, at around six months. For IPL, the worst result was on the face and the best in the armpit.
Two practical readings. One: the ranges are wide and they overlap, so no specific percentage can be promised. Two: if your target is the face, adjust your expectations; it is the area where all the literature, with any technology, achieves least.
How many sessions, and why they are spaced out
Light only damages the follicle when the hair is in its active growth phase, which is when it still holds pigment and a connection to the matrix. At any given moment, only part of the hair in an area is in that phase; the rest is resting and the session simply does not reach it.
The whole calendar follows from that: several spaced-out sessions are needed to catch each batch of follicles as it enters the active phase, and the interval depends on the area, not on the diary. The trials cited work with four-week intervals on the armpit and six to eight weeks on the leg, with courses of four and five sessions respectively; after that, most patients need spaced-out maintenance sessions.
Your particular regimen is set at the assessment. Be wary of a fixed course, identical for everyone and for every area: that is a commercial decision, not a clinical one.
On darker skin and higher phototypes
It is the question asked most often and answered worst on the internet.
The risk in dark skin does not come from the hair, it comes from the fact that the melanin in the skin competes with that of the follicle to absorb the light: if the skin takes up too much energy, burns and pigment changes follow. That is why a recent tan is a real contraindication and not a formality.
The meta-analysis in phototypes III to VI already cited places IPL on reasonable ground: no significant differences against the diode and Nd:YAG in reduction, with a safety profile comparable to the diode, although long-pulsed Nd:YAG came out better on post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. In other words: darker skin can be treated with pulsed light, with conservative settings, a test patch and strict sun protection, but if your phototype is high and your absolute priority is minimising the risk of pigmentation, Nd:YAG has better data on that specific point.
When hair is a medical problem, not a cosmetic one
There is one situation in which light-based hair removal stops being a treatment about appearance: hirsutism, that is, male-pattern hair in a woman, which can be the visible sign of a hormonal disorder such as polycystic ovary syndrome.
A systematic review published in JAMA Dermatology analysed six studies with 423 patients with PCOS and found that light and laser therapies improve the severity of hirsutism and also psychological outcomes, with one caveat that changes the approach: combinations with systemic treatment — diode with metformin or with an oral contraceptive, IPL with metformin — were superior to light alone. The authors stress that the certainty of the evidence is low.
The practical consequence is simple and worth saying even though it costs us sessions: if the hair appeared rapidly, and comes with irregular periods, acne or changes in the voice, the first step is not hair removal, it is investigation. Treating only the surface of an endocrine problem delays a diagnosis. In those cases we refer to endocrinology or gynaecology and, where appropriate, light-based hair removal accompanies the medical treatment rather than replacing it.
Risks and adverse effects
- Erythema and perifollicular oedema in the hours that follow. This is what is expected, not a complication. In the direct comparison with the diode laser, erythema was more common with IPL; oedema and charring were more common with the diode. All temporary.
- Burns and blisters. The real risk, and it rises with tanned skin, high settings or a lack of cooling.
- Pigment changes: lighter or darker patches, usually temporary, more likely in higher phototypes and with sun exposure.
- Paradoxical hypertrichosis. This is the effect that surprises people most: more hair growing in or around the treated area. A meta-analysis of 9,733 patients puts it at 3% (95% CI: 1–6%), almost exclusively on the face and neck — outside those areas it appeared in only 0.08% of cases. The technology used made no difference to the rate, and in three of the four studies that assessed it, it improved by continuing treatment. If it happens to you, what is usually indicated is not stopping but carrying on.
- Eye injury. Approved eye protection is compulsory for patient and operator during every pulse. It is not negotiable.
- Folliculitis and infection in the treated area, both uncommon.
When it is not done
- Tanned skin, whether from the sun or from fake tan. It is the state of the skin that rules out a session, not the time of year: with the area protected, treatment goes on all year round.
- White, grey, very fair or red hair: without pigment to absorb the light there is no target, and light-based hair removal does not work. Saying so before charging for a course is the easy part of this job.
- Undiagnosed pigmented lesions in the area. A mole that has changed is investigated before light is fired at it; that is one of the reasons this treatment should be prescribed from a medical consultation.
- Tattoos: we do not treat over them.
- Active infection, a herpes outbreak or inflammatory skin disease in the area.
- Photosensitising medication — some antibiotics, recent oral retinoids, among others: medication must be reviewed before the first session.
- Pregnancy: there is no evidence of harm, but no studies supporting safety either, so it is postponed.
How to prepare
- Shave the area the day before or on the day. The light needs the hair inside the follicle, not outside it.
- Do not wax, tweeze or thread in the weeks beforehand or between sessions: those methods pull the hair out by the root and remove the very target. It is the mistake that ruins a whole course most often.
- Protect the treated area from the sun, before and after: high-factor sunscreen daily and avoid direct exposure. You do not have to give up the summer, you have to arrive at the session without a tan.
- Come without creams, deodorant or make-up on the area to be treated.
Prices and packages
The price depends on the size of the area. Areas are grouped into four sizes, and each size has its own price per session and its own package:
| Size and areas | Per session | 6-session package |
|---|---|---|
| Small (S): upper lip, between the eyebrows, chin or areolae | €30 | €150 |
| Medium (M): full face, armpits or bikini line | €40 | €200 |
| Large (L): arms, chest or back | €50 | €250 |
| Extra-large (XL): full legs or the whole torso | €60 | €300 |
The six-session package is paid as five: the sixth is included. It is the usual way of booking it, because the treatment is, by definition, a course and not a one-off. That said, the package is a way of paying, not a treatment plan: the number of sessions you need, and how far apart they are, is decided at the assessment according to the area and your hair. It is personal and non-transferable, is redeemed by appointment and is valid for 12 months.
If several areas are treated, the price of each is added according to its size: armpits and upper lip, for example, come to €40 + €30, that is, €70 per session.
The areas in the table are the usual ones; for any other, we will tell you at the assessment which size it falls into. We do not make any price conditional on booking on the spot.
How to check that the equipment is legal
It is worth knowing, because this is a sector with a lot of equipment and little oversight.
Intense pulsed light devices intended for hair removal are expressly covered by Annex XVI of Regulation (EU) 2017/745: although their purpose is not medical, they are regulated as medical devices because of how they work and the risk they carry. They are not household appliances.
And there is a specific precedent: the AEMPS reported the detection of a forged CE marking certificate attributed to a manufacturer of intense pulsed light devices combined with diode laser and of fractional CO₂ laser systems. The certificate manipulated dates and falsely attributed approval to a German notified body, and the Agency asked practitioners to check their equipment and its dates of manufacture.
Asking what you will be treated with, who makes it and who operates the device is reasonable. No serious centre is uncomfortable with it.
Book an appointment
You can book your own appointment. Pick the day and time from the free slots in the diary, in a panel that opens right here, without leaving this page.
Frequently asked questions
Is light-based hair removal permanent?
No. We talk about long-term reduction. In the systematic review with follow-up of at least one complete growth cycle, pulsed light achieved between 27% and 52.7% sustained reduction depending on the area, and the other technologies do not reach 100% either. Most patients need maintenance sessions.
Does it hurt?
Less than classic light-based hair removal. In the trials comparing SHR mode with the high-fluence shot on the same patient, median pain fell from 6.75 to 2.75 in one and from 3.6 to 2.7 in the other. It is described as a building warmth during the sweep, rather than the sharp snap of a single shot.
How many sessions do I need?
It depends on the area, because it depends on its growth cycle. The published trials use courses of four sessions every four weeks on the armpit and five every six to eight weeks on the leg. Your regimen is set at the assessment; an identical course for every area and every patient is a commercial decision.
Does it work on darker skin?
Yes, with conservative settings, a test patch and strict sun protection. In phototypes III to VI, pulsed light showed no significant difference against the diode or Nd:YAG in hair reduction. If your priority is minimising the risk of hyperpigmentation, Nd:YAG has better data on that specific point.
And on fair or grey hair?
It does not work. The light needs the pigment in the hair in order to become heat; without pigment there is no target. This is a physical limitation of the technology, not of any particular machine.
Can it make more hair grow?
It is uncommon but it happens: it is called paradoxical hypertrichosis and it appears in around 3% of treatments, almost only on the face and neck. The technology used does not change the likelihood. It usually improves by continuing treatment rather than stopping it.
Can it be done in summer?
Yes. What rules out a session is not the month of the year, it is arriving with tanned skin: the risk depends on the state of your skin, not on the season.
With good protection, treatment goes on all year round. In practice that means avoiding direct exposure on the area to be treated, high-factor sunscreen daily and no fake tan. With that, summer is not an obstacle — and in fact interrupting the course for three months has its own cost: the session calendar is set by the hair growth cycle, and skipping it makes the treatment longer.
If you are going to be in the sun without being able to protect yourself — a week at the beach, outdoor work — that particular session is postponed and picked up afterwards. It is an adjustment to the diary, not giving up.
Can I wax between sessions?
No. Waxing, tweezing and threading pull the hair out by the root and remove the structure the light needs to reach. Between sessions, shaving only.
Is it the same as IPL for pigmentation or rosacea?
No. It is the same type of machine, but with different filters, settings and purpose. A centre doing hair removal with pulsed light does not mean it treats pigmentation or rosacea to a medical standard, or the other way round. We explain it on our intense pulsed light (IPL) in Valencia page.
How much does it cost?
It depends on how large the area is, and there are four sizes: €30 per session for a small area (upper lip, between the eyebrows, chin or areolae), €40 for a medium one (full face, armpits or bikini line), €50 for a large one (arms, chest or back) and €60 for an extra-large one (full legs or the whole torso). The six-session package is paid as five, from €150 to €300 depending on the size, and if several areas are treated, the price of each one is added together. At the assessment we confirm which size yours falls into.
Sources
- Li W, Liu C, Chen Z, et al. Safety and efficacy of low fluence, high repetition rate versus high fluence, low repetition rate 810-nm diode laser for axillary hair removal in Chinese women. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2016;18(7):393-396. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27419804/
- Koo B, Ball K, Tremaine AM, Zachary CB. A comparison of two 810 diode lasers for hair removal: low fluence, multiple pass versus a high fluence, single pass technique. Lasers Surg Med. 2014;46(4):270-4. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24752608/
- Barros RTB, Stella OHAS, Galache TR, et al. Efficacy and safety of intense pulsed light compared to diode laser for hair removal: a randomized controlled trial. Lasers Med Sci. 2026;41(1):108. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/42249955/
- Krasniqi A, McClurg DP, Gillespie KJ, Rajpara S. Efficacy of lasers and light sources in long-term hair reduction: a systematic review. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2022;24(1-5):1-8. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35634805/
- Dorgham NA, Dorgham DA. Lasers for reduction of unwanted hair in skin of colour: a systematic review and meta-analysis. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2020;34(5):948-955. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31587390/
- Snast I, Kaftory R, Lapidoth M, Levi A. Paradoxical Hypertrichosis Associated with Laser and Light Therapy for Hair Removal: A Systematic Review and Meta-analysis. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2021;22(5):615-624. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34057666/
- Tan K, Coster T, Mousa A, et al. Laser and Light-Based Therapies for Hirsutism Management in Women With Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome: A Systematic Review. JAMA Dermatol. 2024;160(7):746-757. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38630483/
- AEMPS. Products without a medical purpose under Annex XVI (Regulation EU 2017/745), which expressly includes intense pulsed light devices for hair removal. https://www.aemps.gob.es/productos-sanitarios/productos-sanitarios/productos-sin-finalidad-medica-anexo-xvi/
- AEMPS. The AEMPS reports the detection of a forged CE marking certificate from the company Beijing Globalipl Development Co., Ltd. (in Spanish) https://www.aemps.gob.es/informa/la-aemps-informa-sobre-la-deteccion-de-un-certificado-de-marcado-ce-falsificado-de-la-empresa-beijing-globalipl-development-co-ltd/
Book your consultation
The assessment serves three specific purposes: checking that your hair has enough pigment to respond, reviewing your phototype, medication and any lesions in the area, and working out the real surface area so we can give you a fixed regimen and quotation. You can book one at ICPM, in Valencia, with no obligation to commit to anything that day.
Clinical confirmation by the surgeon
Clinical review: Dr Enrique Salmerón González and Dr Elena García Vilariño, specialists in Plastic, Aesthetic and Reconstructive Surgery, registered with the Valencia Medical Council under numbers 46/4624077 and 46/4624503 respectively. Last medical review: 2 August 2026. This information is for general guidance and does not replace individual medical assessment in consultation.
Registration no. 46/4624077
Registration no. 46/4624503





